Free Furniture Refinishing Tips

From The Files Of

Publisher of Furniture Refinishing How To Guides

Q & A  # 9

 

Check back often, New questions & answers are added weekly.

Question # 234 - Hi Phil I am working on my Kitchen Cabinets and I am having problems. I can't get the cabinets to look like I want to. The wood is pine. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong ?

Thanks minda

Answer - Hi Minda, It's hard to give you advice, since you have already started. The best advice I can offer you is to stop and start from scratch. Hopefully you haven't gone to far. You need to follow a detailed step by step plan. I have an excellent guide on How to Refinish Kitchen Cabinets,

Plus a guide on working with Pine wood. I have included a preview of both guides below.

WORKING WITH PINE NOTE: This guide is available only by joining my Online Clinic.

I do not sell many guides separately.

How To Refinish Kitchen Cabinets NOTE: you can order the guide directly from this link.

My Online Clinic includes both of these guides plus a 100 more, so you will have plenty of information to help you.

If you decide to join my Online Clinic, a link to provided below.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

Looking forward to working with you,

Regards,

Phil

Question # 235 - Dear Doc. Phil, I really want to start a part time furniture refinishing business but I have no no place to work other then my cellar. Can you offer some suggestions ? I need to make some extra money.  At my age work is hard to find. Thanks Jim

Answer - Hi Jim, I would start off by doing repairs. Re gluing chairs, caning and rushing chairs, and maybe upholstery. All these suggestions you can do in your cellar or even one of your rooms. You won't need much space. The work is clean, and all you would need is some guidance, plus some tools. If you have a garage, you can work there, provided you have heat or you could use a space heater. Later on, you can branch out if you want to.

I can help you get started, and it won't cost you a fortune. Check out the following links, and get back to me.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

Regards, Phil

Question # 236 -

Hi,
I have white laquer painted cabinets that are yellowed, ugly  and  some slightly peeling.  I would  just like to repaint  them with  white enamel paint.
 I was told that one could not paint  enamel over laquer, and if it is possible, I do not know what preparation process I would need to do
Does your cabinet instruction booklet deal with this or is it just about  refinishing wood stained cabinets.
I would be happy to buy you instruction booklet if it deals with this.
I appreciate the help.
Thank You.
Cher Walker

Answer -

Hi Cheryl,
It is always best to strip off the present finish and start from scratch.
The stripping and prepping procedures are the same, no matter what
the original finish is.
The only difference is after the cabinets are all stripped, you will be
using a paint primer and top coats.
My guide covers everything INCLUDING painting.
 
The first thing I want you to do ( after receiving the guide )
is to read my rules pertaining to Refinishing and Prepping.
You will find them in my Refinishers Diary, which comes with my Kitchen
Cabinet Guide.
 
My rules to Refinishing and Prepping and backed with over 27 years of experience,
and if you follow them, you should not have any problems.
 
If there is something that you do not understand, contact me before going any further.
I answer all questions as soon as I receive them.
 
You can order the guide by clicking on the following link.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/kitchencabinets.htm
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
 

Question # 237 - How do you repair veneers?
 

Answer - Hi Helen,
You repair veneer by regluing or patching.
This subject is covered in my Online Clinic.
To subscribe, go to the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

For a preview of before and after pictures of patched veneer,
go to the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm



Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net

 

Question # 238 -

Hi,

I have a dining room table that had a small bowl with fingernail polish remover in it set on the table it took the finish and stain off of the table in a circle where the bottom of the bowl was.  Is there some way to just repair this one small area?  It was a small bowl only about 3 inches in diameter.

Thanks,

Karen

Answer -

Hi Karen,
Chances are you will need to have it Refinished.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 239 -

How does one loosen the broken end of a chair rung.  One end is broken off at a chair leg and the other end is glued tightly in

another chair leg?  Will I have to break off the portion still glued tightly and then drill out the broken off parts still glued in the legs?

 

Thank You!!!

Gordon

Answer -

Dear Gordon,
If you're a subscriber to my Online Clinic
go to the following guides
 
#16 - Repairing Broken Dowels
#26 - Removing Broken Rungs On Chairs
#53 - Repairing Broken Rungs ( Another Solution )
#78 - Repairing Joints Using A Pocket Hole Tool
 
If you're not a subscriber, you can subscribe by
going to the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil

Question # 240 -

Inherited my mother's ca 1890's oak veneer bed dresser, and high-boy.  The whitish and greenish haze over the blackened patina tells me it is mildew.  Can I wash it with a bleach solution?  Yes. Will this kill mildew without disturbing the old finish or loosening the veneer? Yes.
 
I have wiped the bed with Murphy's Oil soap solution without any problem, and it is cleaner, overall.  But this isn't enough to thoroughly remove the mildew. 
 
Another question:  all of the original wooden wheels are still intact.  Should I remove them or not? Remove them and clean....
 
Thanks for any advice.
 
H. M.

Answer -

My answers are below in Red
To learn more, join my Online Clinic below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil

Question # 241 -

hello,  could you please help me apply finish

Answer -

You will find all the help you need on my Online Clinic.
To join, click link below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil

Question # 242 - I have a simple question, how financially successful can you become in the
refinishing/restoring business. I have been refinishing furniture as a hobby
and have been told I'm good at it. Have thought about turning it into a
business but I haven't a clue what you can charge. I know this is a open
question, as it would depend on the piece to be refinished and whether
repairs were needed. There is a lot i have to learn so before i invest time
and money would like to to have a sense of what you can make. It's hard to
develop a business plan without this basic knowledge.

Answer - Hi Art,
Many people in this business make a six figure income.
It depends on your ambition, your location, your experience,
and the quality of your work.
If you like Refinishing Furniture and you're good at it, I would
say, GO FOR IT..............Being your own boss is a great feeling....

One of the secrets to success is:
 Finding something that you love doing and getting paid for it.

As far as what to charge, check out my price guide below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/prices.htm

Here is some information on starting a business.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/business.htm
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

Here is a list of guides that are contained in my Online Clinic
that you can learn from.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm

No one has all the answers, but I do have over 26 years of knowledge
and experience that will save you a lot of time and frustration.

It's not fun when you have to learn by trial and error.
It can be very costly, and nerve racking.

If you're willing to learn, I am ready to teach you.

If you decide to join my Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic,
The first thing I want you to do is to go to my Refinishers Diary,
and read my rules to Refinish Furniture.

My computer is on 12 hours a day, and I answer all questions as soon
as I receive them.

To join, click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
 

Question # 243 -

I need step by step instructions on how to keep track of the doors and drawers and not paint over the numbering system.  Does your book tell all that?  Do you have a satisfaction guarantee..? 

Answer -

Hi Mimi,
The guide comes with a no questions asked Money Back Guarantee.
Yes.....it does give you instructions on marking your doors and drawers.
 
Once you place your order, the guide will be sent to your e mail address.
 
After you receive the guide,
I recommend that the first thing you need to do is to go to my Refinishers Diary.
There you will find Rules that I use to Refinish.
My Refinishers Diary is included with the Kitchen Cabinet Guide.
If there is something in the guide that you do not understand, contact me RIGHT AWAY.
I answer all questions as soon as I receive them.
 
To order your guide, click the following link.
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
 

 

can I print your guide out...so I can take it with me on my jobs..?  Also, does your book tell me how to price a job.?
 

 

Hi Mimi,
Yes....You can print the guide.....
As far as pricing the jobs, check out my price guide.
You should stay within your competitors prices, or slightly below.
I usually do not give a price till I try stripping a piece, just to see
what I am getting into.
Some finishes strip harder then others, so price accordingly.
Some people charge by the running foot, some charge by square feet.
Others charge by the hour.
It is up to you which method you choose.
Just figure out how much they charge in your area, and use that for your guide.
I usually charge #20.00 to $40.00 a square feet, depending on the style doors and drawers,
plus how the finish comes off.
 
Regards,
Phil

 

Okay, you convinced me and I need all the help I can get as a beginner.  Thank you so much.
 

Question # 244 -

Hi, I recently tried using denatured alcohol on a heat spot that was on my antique dining room table. It removed the finish and now there is obvious dull spot where it was applied.  Please instruct me how I can repair this or restore the finish?  

Answer -

If Denatured Alcohol removed the finish, then the finish was Shellac.
You could try applying french padding shellac over the dull spot.
If that doesn't work, you will need to Refinish.
 
Regards,
Phil

Question # 245 - Do you strip paint off of doors? I bought some store bought stripper but it doesn't do anything.

Answer - No.... I no longer strip doors anymore. Most often the paint is lead paint. You're best to take it to a Pro. Shop and have it dipped. Lead Paint can be very dangerous to your health.

Question # 246 - Do you still teach Refinishing in your shop. I am mainly interested in Repairs.

Answer - No... I do not have the time to teach one on one. That is one of the main reasons I started my On line Clinic. This way I can teach many people at the same time. Plus the price of my Online Clinic is a small fraction of my one on one shop classes.

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Question # 247 -

i found these chairs recently at a yard sale...im not sure what the wood is or the age and make of the chairs...my question is should i strip the wood before i inquire about new upholstery?...will it take the value (if any) away from the chairs?...any help would be appreciated  
thanks, janette in pensacola , florida

Answer -

Hi Janette,
Stripping will destroy the Antique value, if it IS an Antique.
From the looks of the pictures, I would Restore the finish, instead of Refinishing.
Restoring is covered completely in my Online Clinic.
Restoring is Fast, Easy, and No Mess to clean up.
 
You should do your Repairs first, then strip, refinish or restore the wood.
You should always do your Reupholstering last.
 
For an example of Restoring, click link below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

You can learn ,more by joining my Online Clinic.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
For contents of my Online Clinic, click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
 
 
 

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Question # 248 -

I bought a piece of furniture (an cabinet) and it has a bad odor when you open the doors.  I THINK it is the smell of lacquer.  It has black paint on the inside, it is semi-glossy.  The paint on the outside is glossy red. Any suggestions for odor absorption?  Oh it is obviously wood.

Answer -

Hi Cleo,
The first thing I would try is to open all doors and drawers,
and leave them open for a week, or until the odor is gone.
 
The Manufacture could of closed the doors and drawers to soon,
trapping the odor inside the cabinet.
 
If you are a subscriber to my Online Clinic,
go to my Refinishers Diary, for solutions to remove or trap odor.
 
If you are not a subscriber, you can join by clicking the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 
 

________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 249 -

I need step by step instructions on how to keep track of the doors and drawers and not paint over the numbering system.  Does your book tell all that?  Do you have a satisfaction guarantee..? 

Answer -

Hi Mimi,
The guide comes with a no questions asked Money Back Guarantee.
Yes.....it does give you instructions on marking your doors and drawers.
 
Once you place your order, the guide will be sent to your e mail address.
 
After you receive the guide,
I recommend that the first thing you need to do is to go to my Refinishers Diary.
There you will find Rules that I use to Refinish.
My Refinishers Diary is included with the Kitchen Cabinet Guide.
If there is something in the guide that you do not understand, contact me RIGHT AWAY.
I answer all questions as soon as I receive them.
 
To order your guide, click the following link.
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
 

Question - can I print your guide out...so I can take it with me on my jobs..?  Also, does your book tell me how to price a job.?

Answer -

Hi Mimi,
Yes....You can print the guide.....
As far as pricing the jobs, check out my price guide.
You should stay within your competitors prices, or slightly below.
I usually do not give a price till I try stripping a piece, just to see
what I am getting into.
Some finishes strip harder then others, so price accordingly.
Some people charge by the running foot, some charge by square feet.
Others charge by the hour.
It is up to you which method you choose.
Just figure out how much they charge in your area, and use that for your guide.
I usually charge #20.00 to $40.00 a square feet, depending on the style doors and drawers,
plus how the finish comes off.
 
Regards,
Phil

Question -

Hi Phil,
 
Thanks for the guide.  I need sample cabinet doors to work on.  Where is the  best place to purchase these?  I already checked with a couple of cabinet people in my city and they are not interested in selling any doors to me.  Thanks. 

 

Answer -

Hi Mimi,
First thing that comes to mind is:
Kitchen Remolding Companies.
Salvage Yards.
Carpenters.
Real Estate Companies.
 
Question??? Why not work with your own ?
 
That's all I can think of right now....
 
Regards,
Phil

 ___________________________________________________________________________

Question # 250 -

I have a five inch water mark on my 1905 library table,thanks to my wife's plant.Can you give me any advice how to get rid of it with out sanding?
                                                  Thank you

Answer -

Hi Ed,
Denatured Alcohol works in some cases. Just make sure that the finish is not Shellac, in which case it will remove the finish.
Re-Store-A-Finish also will work in most cases, and is safer to use.
If you can't find it, look it up on your computer.
Regards, Phil

_______________________________________________________________________________

Question # 251 - Does your Online Clinic cover Upholstery Repairs.

Answer - Yes, there are several guides on Upholstery and Repairs. Check out the contents of my Online Clinic by going to the following link. http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm

____________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 252 -

Some candle wax got on the upholstery of a dining room chair of mine.  How do you get out the stain?  Thanks and Merry Christmas?

Answer -

The first thing to come to mind is to try a dry cleaners. They should be able to help you.
Regards, Phil

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Question # 253 -

Dear Doc, my husband and his carpenters are making a corner cabinet for me out of some old heart pine lumber that is over a hundred years old.  The wood is weathered, never been refinished, and very dry, but I put some Howard Feed-N-Wax on a sample to see if I could bring up the red and yellow color.  One coat did wonders.  A friend is advising me to continue with the moisture coats and finish with a paste wax.  The carpenters want to put a satin polyurethane on the cabinet and another of my cabinet "experts" says to use steel wool and laquer. Please help us with the finish on this beautiful cabinet.Thanks, Stephanie in Burnt Corn, Alabama

Answer -

Hi Stephanie,
Since the wood is so dry, I would clean it up and apply several coats of Tung Oil.
Then you could apply your paste wax, or Poly Coat.
It is a matter of preference.
 An oil finish protects the wood.
A poly coat or Lacquer finish protects the surface of the wood.
 
If you applied just an oil finish, the oil would dry up in time
and you will need to reapply.
Since the wood is so old and dry, my first choice would be just
an oil finish.
 
Regards,
Phil

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 254 -

Hello,
Just had a question about staining a white whashed pine dresser.  I'm new to refinishing/staining and I'm having trouble getting the desired color I want on my dresser.  I purchased the dresser with this finish already on it. I've tried different brands of stain as well as polystain.  I've also lighly sanded the dresser and nothing seems to want to penetrate.  What do you suggest I do to the piece that isin't too costly as I'm a mom on a tight budget and can't afford to do much.
Would really apreciate any advise you could give me.
Thanks for your help.

Answer -

Hi Yaritza,
Are you trying to apply a stain over a finished piece of furniture ?
If so....stain is meant to be applied over RAW unfinished wood,
not over a finish.
 
One way to apply a stain over a finished piece is to use
an antiquing stain.
 
Other then that, you will need to strip off the existing finish so
that your new stain will be able to penetrate.
 
You may have bought a piece of furniture that was primed and
ready to PAINT.....
 
Removing a white wash stain off of pine will be very time consuming.
Besides stripping, It will require a lot of sanding.
 
Pine can be very difficult to work with, especially staining.
I would recommend that you either Antique it, or paint it.
 
If you decide to go ahead and Refinish it, I offer excellent
step by step detailed Illustrated instructions in my
Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic.
 
If this is what your interested in, click the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
After joining, the first thing I want you to do is to go to my
Refinishers Diary, and check out my Rules to Refinishing.
Follow these rules, and you shouldn't have any problems.
These are the same rules I use and are backed by
over 27 years of experience.
 
For a preview of my Refinishers Diary, click below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/refdiarypre.htm

 

 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil

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Question # 255 - We recently moved into a 9-year old home.  The kitchen cabinets are
> stained
> oak....fairly dark with a mahogany red tint.  They were custom built and
> finished in place with a sprayed on clear finish of some sort.
>
> We want to refinish them using an off white paint background with a
> chocolate  glaze in the crevices and add an antique appearance by randomly
> rubbing away the finish to let the underlying wood and/or stain show
> through
> to simulate natural wear.
>
> Can you advise whether it will be necessary to fully strip the original
> finish?  Also, what are the correct finishing steps to achieve the desired
> result?  Finally, can you recommend specific products to use for
> preparation
> and/or finish?
>
 

Answer - Hi Dennis,
You should strip off the finish and start from scratch.
This will eliminate many problems such as chipping
and adhering, etc...

As far as the steps required for finishing, what you are going to need
is called a Glazing Stain or Flax Stain.
Both are applied the same.
You must experiment to get the results you require.

If you follow the manufactures instruction correctly, you
shouldn't have any problems.

An example of one of the processes are as follows.
A base coat is applied, then sealed.
Next a different color is applied then wiped off till your
satisfied, then sealed.
A third color can be applied, then sealed.
Finally, a finish clear coat is applied to further protect the under coats.

Your local paint supplier should carry all the products that you will need.

Regards,
Phil
 

______________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 256 -

I am thinking about starting my own business in furniture repair as a part time and eventually into full time after I retire from the Fire Department. I build things out of wood in my wood shop once in a while and enjoy working with wood. I think this could be a good career I enjoy.
My question is, how much will you 35 guides help for me for 29.95 and/or is your online guide a better way to learn or is it better for once I start a business and need ongoing help or reference.
Also, what do I need to look for from the mohawk line as far as what to order to do the business right, what cd's or material would be the best to acquire.
I would greatly appreciate all the advice you can give me, I like you do not feel the frachise way is for me and I am having trouble finding the right direction to go on furniture repair.
 
                                             Thanks and look forward to
                                             hearing from you.
 
                                 

Answer -

Hi Dale,
Some people are just interested in the Furniture Repair end of the business.
They are not interested in going into the Furniture Refinishing Business at this time.
They are mainly interested in regluing some chairs, or caning or rushing some chairs.
May be they have a couch frame that need repairing.
 
Some of the people that subscribe to my Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic are customers who
have ordered my Furniture Repair Guides and find out that they need some
information on Refinishing also.
 
My Online Clinic is for those who are interested in starting a business in Furniture
Refinishing, which covers Furniture Repairs, or people who need more information on
the Refinishing end of the business.
 
In your case, I would subscribe to my Furniture Refinishing Online
Clinic, since the Repair guides if ordered separately does not cover
Refinishing.
 
I would order the touch up C.D. from Mohawk, only if you plan on getting into
that end of the business.
The best experience is PRACTICE..............
Remember that CD'S also become out dated.....
 
Some people do only touch up work.
 
You need to look around in your area to determine what the shops offer.
 
When you do repairs, you still need to have some knowledge of refinishing.
They go hand in hand.
 
You should start off by doing what you enjoy best, then branch out.
 
My Online Clinic is presently $29.95 per month, but will increase in time as it
grows larger.
 
When you subscribe to my Furniture Refinishing Clinic, your subscription
price will be locked in. You will never pay for future guides, UNLESS you cancel
and resubscribe later, if the price increased.
 
One of the greatest benefits I have to offer you is SUPPORT....
I answer all questions the same day I receive them.
Sometimes with in minutes, in I happen to be on my computer,
which is most of the time.
 
You will not get this benefit from some book. Plus a book will become
out dated.
My Online Furniture Refinishing Clinic is up dated weekly.....
I won't leave you hanging......
 
My Online Clinic is very large, so take the time are and go through it.
The first thing I want you to look at after subscribing,is my Refinishers Diary.
There you will find the same rules I use to Refinish and Repair furniture.
These rules are backed with over 28 years of knowledge and experience
from trial and error.......
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 257 -

I appreciate your fast feedback. Should I order the 35 guides first just to get started and learn before I put an ad in the paper, since you said there is a guide on how to get into the business.
Yes...You should order the Repair Guides or subscribe to my refinishing clinic first.As far as putting an ad in the paper, choose a paper that has mostly classified add such as the penny saver etc.
 
Then after I get my feet wet, and a little income each month, then should I get your online guides.
 
Are the 35 guides in the online section, Yes and I agree furniture refinishing go hand in hand, I just need to start out slow I guess and ease into this, wouldn't you say.Which ever way you decide is fine. Just keep in mind that my furniture repair guides do not cover refinishing.
 
Will your guides on how to get into the business tell me what is needed to start up as far as tools go, Yes. will a burning tool be needed not right away. or how to describe my business in the paper. Also, what type of insurance is needed in this line of work, such as LLC or others and what type of cost should I look at from Insurance Companies.This depends on which state you are in. Every state is different. Usually you do not need a insurance till you start making a steady income. They look at it as a hobby when you start out part time.I didn't get an insurance till I was making a steady income of around $10,000,00 a year.Chech with your tax man to be sure.If you do your business out of your home, it should cost much less. My business is done from a seperate building so I am paying close to $1000.00 a year. BUT that only started after being in business for five years.
 
Would a business name be better with furniture repair or refinishing or restoration be in order or does one name kind of cover the repair and refinishing aspect.It would be better to use your own name, it's a lot simpler. Examples would be ( Dales Furniture Restoration ) NOTE: You could also use your full name.
 
When you got into the business, did you just do repair or did you do refinishing at the same time. I started off doing just about everything at the same time.When I was young I took courses on woodworking, upholstering, furniture refinishing, and cabinet making.I spent a small fortune on these courses.All of the courses were in print, so I always had some reference material to fall back on. Later on in life, This was one of the reasons that led me to start my furniture refinishing online clinic.I had all this knowledge to share. Plus all the jobs problems I solved by trial and error.It's a hell of a way to learn, BUT you sure remember the tough jobs. You sure do.... An other reason was that courses and books are not up dated. An other reason was, there was nothing available online or offline that was even close to what I wanted to offer.
 
Also since I do woodworking already, I just apply poly by brush or hand now, and am wondering if a spray unit will be warranted and if it is, what will be a unit worth the money, What you want is a HVLP System. I will talk more on this subject when you're ready for it.. Right now, applying your finish by brush will be fine.that is the best bang for the buck, I believe you get what you pay for.
You are right in asking all these questions, that is how you learn, that and practice, and learning from someone that has been doing this business for a long time.
I know I have asked a lot of questions, but It is just starting to flow out from curiosity and I fully appreciate your time in answering my questions honestly. I do like to work with wood and my hands and a career out to be fun and enjoyable.
 
Thanks again and look forward to your advise.
 

Answer -

Hi Dale,
I think you are going to really like this business.
Your knowledge of woodworking will come in handy.
There is no other business I would rather be doing.
I come into my shop in the morning and work on any job that I want to.
Usually I do my repair jobs first. I like working with woodworking machinery.
The finishing jobs I save for warmer days.Otherwise I will need to jack up the heat.
 
To get to your questions, my answers are in red below.
 

 
I appreciate your fast feedback. Should I order the 35 guides first just to get started and learn before I put an ad in the paper, since you said there is a guide on how to get into the business.
Yes...You should order the Repair Guides or subscribe to my refinishing clinic first.As far as putting an ad in the paper, choose a paper that has mostly classified add such as the penny saver etc.
 
Then after I get my feet wet, and a little income each month, then should I get your online guides.
 
Are the 35 guides in the online section, Yes and I agree furniture refinishing go hand in hand, I just need to start out slow I guess and ease into this, wouldn't you say.Which ever way you decide is fine. Just keep in mind that my furniture repair guides do not cover refinishing.
 
Will your guides on how to get into the business tell me what is needed to start up as far as tools go, Yes. will a burning tool be needed not right away. or how to describe my business in the paper. Also, what type of insurance is needed in this line of work, such as LLC or others and what type of cost should I look at from Insurance Companies.This depends on which state you are in. Every state is different. Usually you do not need a insurance till you start making a steady income. They look at it as a hobby when you start out part time.I didn't get an insurance till I was making a steady income of around $10,000,00 a year.Chech with your tax man to be sure.If you do your business out of your home, it should cost much less. My business is done from a seperate building so I am paying close to $1000.00 a year. BUT that only started after being in business for five years.
 
Would a business name be better with furniture repair or refinishing or restoration be in order or does one name kind of cover the repair and refinishing aspect.It would be better to use your own name, it's a lot simpler. Examples would be ( Dales Furniture Restoration ) NOTE: You could also use your full name.
 
When you got into the business, did you just do repair or did you do refinishing at the same time. I started off doing just about everything at the same time.When I was young I took courses on woodworking, upholstering, furniture refinishing, and cabinet making.I spent a small fortune on these courses.All of the courses were in print, so I always had some reference material to fall back on. Later on in life, This was one of the reasons that led me to start my furniture refinishing online clinic.I had all this knowledge to share. Plus all the jobs problems I solved by trial and error.It's a hell of a way to learn, BUT you sure remember the tough jobs. You sure do.... An other reason was that courses and books are not up dated. An other reason was, there was nothing available online or offline that was even close to what I wanted to offer.
 
Also since I do woodworking already, I just apply poly by brush or hand now, and am wondering if a spray unit will be warranted and if it is, what will be a unit worth the money, What you want is a HVLP System. I will talk more on this subject when you're ready for it.. Right now, applying your finish by brush will be fine.that is the best bang for the buck, I believe you get what you pay for.
You are right in asking all these questions, that is how you learn, that and practice, and learning from someone that has been doing this business for a long time.
I know I have asked a lot of questions, but It is just starting to flow out from curiosity and I fully appreciate your time in answering my questions honestly. I do like to work with wood and my hands and a career out to be fun and enjoyable.
 
Thanks again and look forward to your advise.
 

_______________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 258 -

I am excited to find your site and get started with your guides. I have wanted to start a repair business for 20 years. I have built several custom pieces of furniture for our home; Murphy bed with custom cabinets, custom desk with cabinets, entertainment center for living room and a variety of other pieces. Do your guides go into furniture building?

 

Anyway, I purchased your guides this morning and look forward to receiving the link to the information.

 

God Bless and Have a Great Day!

 

Brad McCann

Answer -

Hi Brad,
 
You should of received the link to my Furniture Repair guides by now, I sent it this afternoon.
 
If case you missed it, I have included it below.

To view your guides, please go to my main web site at http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index.html

scroll down to my pass word protected area and enter your user name & password.

 

Your user name is

Your pass word is

 

Welcome aboard......

 

If you have any questions, call me at 1 413 592 6925

or by e mail at phantom2@charter.net

P.S. I do not get into Building Furniture.

I build furniture only for my own use.

Besides, I do not have the time.

My Refinishing business and Online Clinic keep me pretty busy

 

Regards Phil

 

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 259 -

Mr. Beaudet--
I have what may be a simple question for you, but this has caused me a lot of anguish. I have attached a few photos of my dining room furniture. It is finished in what they call a nutmeg lacquer finish. I have been unable to find a marker or polish in the same color (or nearly the same color) to cover up some minor scratches. Can you help me please by recommending a product or company? It would be much appreciated. In return, I will send my autograph!

Regards,

Answer -

Hi Dan,
The type of finish you have is either a Antique finish, a flux finish or a painted finish that has been wiped off slightly.
Your best bet is to take a drawer or door to your local paint dealer and have them mix up a paint to match.
The best way to touch up nicks and scratches is with an air brush.
Information on air brush can be found on my Online Clinic.
You can also use an artist brush and blot off the excess to match.
Also Mohawk makes touch up powders for touching up.
This information is also on my Online Clinic.
Touching up is best applied lightly and built up stages as you go.
Information on my Online Clinic can be found in the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
An example of touch up or restoring can be found below.
 http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 
Regards,
Phil
 

________________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 260 -

I have a triple dresser  that  has accumulate mold since hurricane wilma.  Is there a way to remove the mold and salvage this fine piece of wood?
 
Nina

Answer -

Hi Nina,
Household Bleach will remove and kill mold.
An example of Restoring the finish if needed, will be found below.
 http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 
The full version of the above guide will be found on my Online Clinic
as guide # 71
 
Information on my Online Clinic can be found below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards, phil
 
 

___________________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 261 -

I have an antique dresser that has been stored in a garage not covered and is n bad shape the top of the dresser is peeling off. I want to restore it. It beautiful features on the bottom of the legs shows group of roses on it. How can I start on my own? HELP! I have never done this before so this well definitely be a challenge.

Answer -

Hi Betty,
The first thing to do is to bring it into a heated area.
Instructions on re gluing the veneer and restoring or refinishing and replacing any missing veneer along with repairing structural damage will be found on my Online Clinic.
 
To join click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Next:
Select the guides that pertain to your project.
If there is something you do not understand, contact me right away for further help before proceeding.
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil

__________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 262 - Thank you for the quick response.  How to I repair cabinet doors that have
> small chips of wood in them?  Someone else filled them with something that
> is alot darker than the wood.

Answer - Hi Kenneth & Lori,
You either color them ( touch up ) to match or cut out the damage area and
replace with veneer then color to match.
If you are using an oil stain, you can pick up thick pigment from the bottom
of the can and use this as your medium to match the wood.

Another option would be to apply matching color with an air brush.
The treatment depends on the damage.

Being a professional, I would cut out the area and patch with veneer of the
same type of wood that your cabinets are made of.
The example below is taken from my 7 part guide on Refinishing an Oak Drop
Leaf Desk that is one of the 115 guides from on my Online Clinic.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/oakdropleafpre.htm


Regards,
Phil

_______________________________________________________________________________

Question # 263 -

Please email information on your Chair rushing instructions.
i.e. How much is your Guide? How to order?
 
Melissa

Answer -

Hi Melissa,
The Chair Rushing Guide is not available as a single guide.
The guide is part of a group of guides and is included in my
Online Clinic. http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
see contents http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm
or my Furniture Repair Group Of Guides.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 264 -

I'm refinishing a crotch walnut flip-top desk. It has been stripped of white paint, sanded and stained. I'm applying Minwax Polyurethane Gloss on the exterior surfaces, but is it customary to put the same protective clear finish:
- on the inside sides, bottom and back of the drawers?
- on the tops, bottoms and sides of the pigeon holes?
- on just the top edges of the drawers?
Thank you,

Answer -

Hi George,
The Drawer faces should be finished with your gloss.
Everything else should be sealed with a sealer coat to prevent moisture from getting into the wood.
You could cut your gloss down and use that as your sealer.
Your carcass should also be sealed.
In other words, ALL interior wood should be sealed.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

_____________________________________________________________________________

Question # 265 -

We are buying a Duncan Phife dining room table, buffet
and side board.  The  table has some scratches and a
spot about 4 inches in diameter where something hot
was set on it and blister the finish.  The set is made of
mahogany and is about 125 years old.
What is is best way to refinish the table top.
 
Thank you.
 

Answer -

Hi Donald,
The blistering could be the veneer that has lifted, or just the surface of the finish that blistered.
I would first try to save the top by Restoring the finish.
An example from one of my guides on Restoring can be seen by clicking on the link below.
 http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 
The full versions are available on my Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic.
For more information on my clinic, click the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 

_________________________________________________________________________

Question # 266 -

am thinking about ordering the kitchen cabinet refinishing guide.  However, as has happened to me before, I am afraid that once I get it, will not be as detailed or include information needed to complete my project.
 
I have never attempted to do anything like this and really need a lot of detail.  Does your guide include this type of help?
 
Thank you!

Answer -

Hi Linda,
All my guides are very detailed, including my Kitchen Cabinet Guide.
Order it, check it out, if it's not detailed enough, I'll refund your money.
Fair enough ?
Any questions that you do not understand after checking out the guide,
contact me.
My computer is on most of the time, and I answer all questions.
Sometimes you will receive a answer to your question within minutes.
To place your order, click below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/kitchencabinets.htm
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

____________________________________________________________________________

Question # 267 -

When I buy your guides and have a further question that I understand you answer by email, How much do you charge for this service.
 
Thank you
 
Ted Moody

Answer -

Hi Ted,
I would never charge anyone anything just for answering a question.
I am here to teach you, not to take advantage of you.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

____________________________________________________________________________

Question # 268 - How much does your instruction book cost?
> Fay

Answer - Hi Fay,
Which book are you referring to?
I have 116 of them.
Regards,
Phil
 

__________________________________________________________________________

Question # 269 - Dear Phil
>
> Sorry about that,  I was looking in the internet and reading how to
> refinish my kitchen cabinets and you were describing all the info in
> your book on how to do it but needed to order the book.   I like to know
> up front how much it cost it would be nice to know.  
>
> Thank you,
> From Fay

Answer - Hi again Fay,
The guide cost $29.99
And I DO NOT CHARGE TO ANSWER QUESTIONS.....

You can order the guide by going to the link below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/kitchencabinets.htm
 Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil
 

________________________________________________________________________

Question # 270 -

I tried to go through the way yuo have set up to purchase the 35 guides. I think at some time in the past I have labeled Pay Pal as spam so I do not get a response from them. How else can i purchase this offer?
 
 
Thank you
 
Ted Moody

Answer -

Hi Ted,
The only other way is to send a check.
As soon as the check clears, I will e mail you
with your user name and password.
 
After sending the check, send me a e mail with the date you sent it,
plus what you ordered.
 
Send to:
Philip Beaudet
350 East Main Street.
Chicopee, MA. 01020
 
Looking forward to working with you,
 
Regards,
Phil

__________________________________________________________________________

Question # 271 - Dear Phil,
>
> I would like to order your book on How to refinish kitchen cabinets.  I
> don't want to order on line.   I would like to send you a check and you
> could send me the book.  I don't order on line anything.  Let me know
> your address so I could order it through the mail.   Thanks,  From Fay

Answer - Dear Fay,
All my guides are available Online ONLY.
That is the way my business is set up.
I do not sell books, I sell guides, that include FREE unlimited e mail
consultation.
I answer all questions the same day I receive them.
Often you will receive an answer to your question with in minutes.
I don't think you will find that type of service from any book.
I'm here to teach, while I am still able to.
Are you willing and ready to learn ?

Regards,
Phil
 

__________________________________________________________________________

Question # 272 -

I'm repairing a broken kitchen chair for a customer and the two large back spindles are broken off at the chair seat.  I don't have the machinery to make two parts.  Is the only way to make the repair drill up into the spindle and insert a dowel?  The only problem with that is you have to make sure you drill at the correct angle.  Any other suggestions on how to make a good repair on a broken part??
 
thanks-----------Steve

Answer -

Hi Steve,
The correct angle can be found with a sliding bevel.
Adjust the bevel till it lines up with the angle of the back spindle, then transfer
the angle to the edge of the seat.
 Next, measure in from the outside of the chair seat with a dept caliper, and
transfer the measurement to the bottom of the seat.
Next: With the spindles removed, use a small drill bit and drill up through
the seat till the tip of the bit comes through the other side.
If the bit came through close to the center, add glue and install your spindles.
If the bit missed the center, re-drill.
Clamp your spindles down with web clamps, and drill a hole the size of the dowel
that you will be using.
Insert the dowel dry, to check for fit.
If the dowel fit is to tight, sand the dowel.
NOTE: The fit should be snug.
To tight and you will split the spindles.
You don't want to have to bang it in with a hammer.
When the fit is correct, add glue to both the hole and the dowel.
and push the dowels all the way in.
Turn the chair up side down and let the glue dry for a day.
 Another solution would be to make scarf joints.
On stick chairs you could use hip huggers.
You can learn more by joining my Online Clinic.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

_____________________________________________________________________

Question # 273 - I have an english writing desk One of the drawer front is warped-it has
> dovetail joints. How do I straighten the face of the drawer? Thanks Carrie

Answer - Hi Carrie,
Soak it in Peg.
 Clamp it for a few days
You may have to strip it so that the Peg could penetrate.
Regards,
Phil
 

__________________________________________________________________

Question # 274 -

We have a rather old double bed.  The wooden frame has side rails into which the mattress sits.  There is a headboard and footboard attached to the side rails.

 

            We recently purchased a queen size mattress and we would like to use the old frame.  Is there a way to modify the frame to accommodate the queen size mattress?

Answer -

Hi David,
Any bed supplier should have a kit that would allow you to modify your frame.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

________________________________________________________________

Question # 275 - Hi there!
> I have a leather couch that has been scratched by the cat. Not too deep
> but being brown you can see the
> scratches well.
>  Can you help me?
> Thank you
> Michelle

Answer - Hi Michelle,
Tanners Die should work.
You should be able to purchase it from a shoe repair shop.
If a pinch, you could use liquid shoe polish, or blend all stains.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

________________________________________________________________________

Question # 276 - Phil what is Peg ? Thanks Carrie Rowe
>
> on 1/8/06 1:23 PM, phil at phantom2@charter.net wrote:
>
>> Hi Carrie,
>> Soak it in Peg.
>> Clamp it for a few days
>> You may have to strip it so that the Peg could penetrate.
>> Regards,
>> Phil
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Carrie Rowe" <
>> To: <phantom2@charter.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:32 PM
>> Subject: Warped drawer front
>>
>>
>>> I have an english writing desk One of the drawer front is warped-it has
>>> dovetail joints. How do I straighten the face of the drawer? Thanks
>>> Carrie
>>

Answer - Hi Carrie,
Peg is a chemical used to straighten warped wood.
Regards,
Phil
 

________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 277 -

Do you have a guide for removing a finish from cheap particle board furniture, like  a computer desk?  Can you paint over this type of finish after lightly sanding?  I wouldn't think you could use stripper, but is there something you can use?  Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thank you,
 
Patsy Devers

Answer -

Hi Patsy,
I would not attempt to strip particle board.
Clean it with a silicon and wax remover.
Prime it and paint it, or antique it.
With an antiquing kit, you can make it look like
any type of wood.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

_______________________________________________________________________

Question # 278 -

Thank you for the phone number. My check for $119.95 will come directly from Bank One.  It will be delivered on or by 1-17-06. I am ordering your 35 guides on furniture repair plus How to start your own business.
I have a very nice woodworking shop, well equipped. I have made several pieces of furniture, they are beautiful. How to market them is my problem. Also I think furniture repair is more difficult than making new. I am anxious to learn that.
 
Sincerely
 
 
Ted Moody

Answer-

Hi Ted,
I will be sending you your user name and password as soon as the check clears,
which usually is 4 to 5 business days.
 
I also have a very well equipped work shop, but I am so busy with my Furniture Refinishing Business
plus writing guides for my Online Clinic, that there just isn't enough hours in a day.
 
Furniture Repair is very challenging.
Each job is different.
Often you will be required to make replacement parts.
This is where your experience in Furniture Making will come in handy.
You should do very well.
As far as marketing, it's a matter of making the right connections, and advertising.
You would have to specialize in quality and not be talked into taking shortcuts.
When you are first starting out, you have to build a reputation, and stand behind it.
Like I probably told you before, I was going to go into Furniture Making, BUT...
In this area, the competition is unbelievable.
It is a throw away satiety.
Most people in this area consider the price first.
They would rather buy cheap furniture, and take their chances.
I was going to specialize in reproducing Antiques.
Now a days, I only build furniture for a select few, plus myself, that's when I get some free time.
 
Warm Regards,
Phil

____________________________________________________________________

Question # 279 - I have a solid wood chair that has a leg that has been broken at about 4
inches from the bottom of the leg.  The wood appears to be solid.  I was
thinking about trying to re-attach it by drilling a hole in both the leg and
the broken piece and then inserting a dowel with some wood glue.  I am
trying not to disturb the finish, and trying to make the chair sturdy and
usable again and the same time.  Is this the best way to go about this type
of repair? If so do you have any hints on how to match up the dowel holes
and what tools would be best to use for this task?

Any information is most appreciated.

Erin Banks
 

Answer - Hi Erin,
Here is one way on how I would repair this leg.

#1-Clamp the two pieces together.
Make sure you get them lined up perfect.
Use as many clamps as it takes to keep the
two pieces from moving.

#2-Drill two 1/8 inch holes through the back,
but not through both pieces.

#3-Insert a 1/8 inch dowel, ALL the way in.
If the dowel fits to tight, sand it a little.
Mark the dowel with a pencil up against the back leg.
This is used as a reference mark.

#4-Remove or loosen the front piece.

#5-Blow out any dust between the two pieces.

#6-Add glue to both pieces.

#7-Re-clamp both pieces.
Make sure the dowel is in all the way.

#8-Clean off all excess glue.

#9-Let dry.

#10-Cut off dowel.
NOTE:- Use masking tape on both sides of the dowel
to protect the finish.

#11-Stain end of dowel to match .

Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
The Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic


 

___________________________________________________________________________

Question # 280 - Hi and thank you for taking my question.  I have custom cabinets that were
> built 15 years ago and finished in the cabinet shop with white spray on
> lacquer.  They looked great for the first 10 years.  Now, they show signs
> of
> wear as I really use my kitchen a lot.  I had an estimate to have the
> lower
> cabinets on one side of the kitchen sanded and relacquered at a cost of
> around $2000.  I really don't think the whites would match the other
> cabinets.  Most of the cabinets still look great.  It is only the ones
> around the sink and the drawers and base of my kitchen built-in desk that
> look bad.  Do you know of anything I could do myself to the cabinets?  I
> am
> wanting to change counter-tops also.  Are my cabinets likely to get
> damaged
> in the process if someone reputable does the work?  Thanks so much.
> Barbara

Answer - Hi Barbara,
You could try cleaning them with Bonamy.
As far as the workers damaging your Cabinets,
They should be insured.
The price sounds reasonable.
As far as the tops matching your bottoms,
Ask for a sample.
Have them spray an inside of one door.
Here is one thought.
After your tops are done, will the color fade?
You may be in the same situation 5 or 10 years from now.
You might be better off in the long run to
do ALL of your cabinets.

Regards,
Phil
The Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

_________________________________________________________________________________

Question # 281- Subject: Re: Warped drawer front


> OOOHHH But where can I get it?
>
>
>
> On 1/9/06 1:06 AM, "phil" <phantom2@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi Carrie,
>> Peg is a chemical used to straighten warped wood.
>> Regards,
>> Phil
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Carrie Rowe"
>> To: "phil" <phantom2@charter.net>
>> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 1:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: Warped drawer front
>>
>>
>>> Phil what is Peg ? Thanks Carrie Rowe
>>>
>>> on 1/8/06 1:23 PM, phil at phantom2@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Carrie,
>>>> Soak it in Peg.
>>>> Clamp it for a few days
>>>> You may have to strip it so that the Peg could penetrate.
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Phil
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Carrie Rowe"
>>>> To: <phantom2@charter.net>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:32 PM
>>>> Subject: Warped drawer front
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I have an english writing desk One of the drawer front is warped-it
>>>>> has
>>>>> dovetail joints. How do I straighten the face of the drawer? Thanks
>>>>> Carrie
>>>>
>>

Answer- Hi Carrie,
Try a woodworking specialty shop online.

Regards,
Phil
 

__________________________________________________________________________

Question # 282-

Subject: salt water

 
we got in two pieces from the New Orlens flood that stood in salt water for ten days one is walnut the other oak we have washed them many times with clear water but when they dry the turn all white with salt again.Is there anything else that we could try?Thanks

Answer -

I would try cleaning them with Denatured Alcohol.
Denatured Alcohol absorbs moisture.
Next- Spray on a coat of Poly, on a unconscious area,
to see if the white reappears.
If the white doesn't reappear, spray everything.
 Regards,
Phil
The Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

_____________________________________________________________________________

Question # 283-

Hi, my name is Krista  I am 20 years old and have had an interest in restoring old furniture. I saw the many positive responses to the guide you put out and was exstatic to see you left an email address. I am really interested in restoring old furniture and making it look like new again. This is something that has interested me for quite some time. Growing up I would always seen my father fixing our furniture around the house. I was wondering if you could give me a few pointers on where to begin as far as getting into the business of furniture repair/restoration. Thank you so much for your time!
 
Krista

Answer-

Hi Krista,
I congratulate you.
It's not often I hear from someone as young as you wanting to get into the business.
Knowledge is one thing that no one can every take away from you.
There is nothing like working for yourself.
This business has been very good to me.
I have made many friends through my Online Clinic and have many satisfied subscribers.
I offer you my knowledge with over 25 years of experience, and I am ready
to be your personal mentor if you are ready to learn.
I offer several options which are described in the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm
 
As far as other options, I do not recommend learning by trial and error on your own.
Believe me. I speak from experience. It's not the way to go.
It is the way I learned, but not by choice. There wasn't any one available to walk me through
and help out when I got into trouble. No one would take the time and answer my questions.
Franchises were to expensive, and to impersonal.
BUT - If you want to go that route, I would suggest that you pick up some discarded
furniture and repair them yourself, but don't expect much help when you have questions.
In order for me to help you we have to be on the same page, or we both would be lost.
 
You could try getting a job as an apprentice, if there is such a thing available today.
No one seems to want to give away any trade secrets, for fear of loosing their job
or creating competition.
 
Most of my guides are very detailed with many Illustration.
For contents of my Online Clinic click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm
 
Check out my Q&A Pages. They contain over 500 questions that I
answered from people who need help.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/q.htm
 
 
If you decide to join me, I'll be ready to teach you all I know.
To subscribe, click the following link.
Pick the option that's right for you.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 

__________________________________________________________________________

Question # 284-

I am a kitchen and bath designer that only sells product to my clients.  Situations will come up where there needs to be a cabinet finish repair done on site...for example.
 
A painted cabinet will have a panel shrink exposing the raw wood around the edges of the center panel...
 
The carpenter (or electrician or plumber) drops a tool making a scratch or not so nice dent...
 
A cabinet panel will crack and need to be professionally filled in so the repair is inconspicuous...
 
  - I am of the opinion that a talented finisher with the right tools would be able to make these aesthetically pleasing to my customer, once again.  I realize that it takes experience and talent, but have no idea how to find someone in my area that does that kind of work - can you help me?  I am located in northern/central New Jersey.
 
Thanks!

Answer-

Dear Maria,
I do not know anyone in your area to refere you to.
An experienced touch up person should be able to help you out.
 
As far as: A painted cabinet will have a panel shrink exposing the raw wood around the edges of the center panel.
The center panel can be pushed back in place with a little persuasion.
 
As far as:
The carpenter (or electrician or plumber) drops a tool making a scratch or not so nice dent...
The workers should be responcable for the damage.
The counter tops should be protected with thick cardboard.
Solid wood and Formica counter tops can be touched up, and the scratches buffed out.
Dents in Formica is an other story. They will need to be filled in first, then buffed.
 
As far as:
A cabinet panel will crack and need to be professionally filled in so the repair is inconspicuous...
Wax sticks and Lacquer sticks are used to repair this type of damage.
 
Except for repairing dents in Formica, everything else is covered on my Online Clinic.
If you want to learn how to do it yourself, I offer complete Illustrated step by step instructions,
along with consultation service.
For more information, click the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
The following link provide previews of touch up repairs.

Furniture Refinishing Guides

 
Regards,
Phil

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Question # 285- Dear Sir / Madam,
I am taken the liberty to approach you by e-mail with request for repair estimate of two old Swedish cabinets damaged during a commercial move (see enclosed pictures).
Big cabinet (three separable sections): Only upper left front corner needs repair.
Smaller cabinet (33x39x10”): Stripped off original paint on upper right side (the way it looked before shown on the corresponding left side pictures); this part also loose; same for bottom part (socket). Additionally, there are scratches on front door and also part of the layout board is damaged (missing, stripped wood). I understand that an itemized, detailed estimate based on photos only might be difficult. However, iI would greatly appreciate if you would be kind to provide at least a rough estimate.
Do you perform appraisals as well?
I thank you for your time and consideration.
Sincerely /

Answer-

Hi TJ,
I no longer get involved in touching up or repairing painted surfaces.
I would recommend removing a draw or door and taking them to your local
paint supplier, where they would mix up some paint that can be used to
touch up the missing areas.
 
You will need to feather out the rough edges by sanding.
After which the sanded areas will need to be cleaned
Then a primer will need to be applied over the exposed wood areas.
Then start building the areas with the mixed up paint from your paint supplier.
 
If you need more help:
I am available as a consultant
Also my Online Clinic will prove helpful.
For more information, click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil

________________________________________________________________________________

Question #286-

Dear Dr. Phil,
 
You are right - the worker responsible would be financially responsible, but someone actually needs to be contracted to do the work - then the appropriate tradesman would pay their bill.
 
My problem with the center panel shrinking is that it's happening on ALL 4 SIDES!  There is no place to push it.
 
Wax and lacquer sticks sound like they could achieve the splitting repair result, but again, it is finding someone who knows how to use them to get the desired inconspicuous result.
 
If I didn't already put in 70 hrs a week being a designer, and the rest of the hours being a mother to my young children, this would be my new-found profession!  (sleep is SO over-rated!)  I've been fascinated by everything you've written!
 
Thanks again for the pearls of wisdom!
 
Peace,

Answer -

Hi Maria,
If the lumber used had the correct moisture content, the wood would not shrink thus exposing the unfinished areas around the door panel.
I would consider purchasing your cabinets from someone else.
 
If you took a door to your local paint supplier, he could mix a paint to match.
Then you could touch up the areas yourself, or hire a refinisher.
 
Consider seeking a interior decorator.
Some of them have their own touch up profe